How to protect yourself from dog attacks?

[Объединенное Детективное Бюро]

It is a pity for the unfortunate dogs that the owners throw out into the street, condemning them to death. I wish you and your loved ones to always get along with these animals and never meet with an aggressive dog pack. But if you still find yourself in such a situation ... First, find out the reasons for the attack of dogs:
- You involuntarily invaded its territory - and it can be anything, just a dog considers this territory to be his.
“You bring something tasty, and the dog just wants to get his own food.”
- Wrong training, especially dogs of fighting breeds - the dog can attack for no apparent reason, showing friendliness before that.
- Assault by the host.
- The dog is infected with rabies. Characteristically, a mad dog attacks silently, without a warning bark. Here on this I would like to dwell in detail and talk about the symptoms of rabies.

Symptoms of rabies in dogs
- The dog behaves strangely: her mood changes, she growls, clogs into dark corners, reluctantly goes to the owner’s call, then she can suddenly start to kiss him, joyfully jump around him - this is the stage of the harbingers of the disease. Also at this stage, the dog can nervously walk around the room, listen warily to something, refuse to eat his favorite food. In the game, start biting slightly, biting other dogs.
- The second stage is violent, it starts in 1-3 days. All of the above symptoms are aggravated, hallucinations begin in the dog, she digs the earth with fury, gnaws and tears various objects to shreds. And trying to break free and escape from prying eyes. This dog has completely no sense of fear, aggression dominates over everything. After a fit of rage, the dog lies motionless, again beginning to rage as the irritant approaches. At this stage, the dog's barking becomes hoarse and is accompanied by a high prolonged howl. The dog refuses water and food, her salivation increases.
- After 3-4 days, the paralytic stage sets in, the animal no longer shows violence and practically does not move.

Symptoms of rabies in humans
- Depressed state, itching and trembling in bitten limbs, fever, fever.
- Shortness of breath, a sense of anxiety, aversion to fluids, excitability, cramps in all muscles of the body.
- Paralysis - starting with the muscles of the face, neck, tongue, passing into paralysis of the whole body.
Remember: even if you have received minor bites, be sure to seek medical help, because any dog can be infected with rabies. Now the treatment is not as painful and long as before, but still there is not much pleasant in it. And still undergo treatment, because to prove that the dog is not sick with rabies, you can only bring her head to the analysis. Do not delay, contact immediately, because in a few days it will be too late: rabies is incurable, and if you do not receive anti-rabies therapy before the clinical manifestations of the disease begin, you will die. Immediately after the bite, wash the wound with warm water and soap and contact the emergency room, call an ambulance or contact the state veterinary clinic.

How to protect yourself from dogs?
There are several ways, read them carefully - it is better to be prepared for an attack, thereby greatly increasing your chances of success. To get started on how you can prepare in advance:
- Buy an ultrasonic dog repeller and carry it with you all the time (the cheapest I found costs 870 rubles).
- You can buy pepper spray, the issue price is 150 rubles.
- You can prepare the Cayenne mixture: half - finely ground tobacco (the most smelly one you will find), half - ground black pepper. Pour the mixture into a plastic container of vitamins and carry it in your breast pocket, and when attacking a dog, scatter it in the face twice. From people it also helps a lot.
And now - tips for protection in a surprise attack:
- Do not turn your back to the dog and do not look away without making sudden movements, leave the territory guarded by the dog.
- If you see a dog approaching you silently or with a growl, try to climb higher, go into a pond (if the dog has to swim to you, you are safe) or use any door to hide.
- If you have nowhere to hide, pick up a handful of sand or dirt from the ground and throw it in the eyes and mouth of a running dog.
- Stand with your back to the wall to protect yourself from an attack from behind, wrap your hand in outer clothing, or hold a bag in front of you. And when the dog grabs your protected hand or bag, kick it in the throat as hard as possible.
- If you ride a bicycle and dogs attacked you, stop - they will most likely stop too. But you can’t continue moving, otherwise the attack will resume. Walk alongside the bike until the dog falls behind.
- Never run away - the dog runs five times faster than a person. You can run only when the shelter is very close and you are guaranteed to have time to run to it. You can jump onto the roof of the car - you can compensate the owner for damage if you save your life and health.
- If you still can’t avoid a fight with a dog, remember its most vulnerable places: the tip of the nose, eyes, nose bridge, nape of the neck and ears behind the ears, ribs, joints of the paws - and if necessary, beat as hard as possible.
- Do not take a passive position - if you just lie with your head in your hands, you will have almost no chance of survival. Behave as aggressively as possible: scream menacingly, use stones, sticks and other improvised means.
- Try to translate the natural fear of dogs into rage, anger, then the attacked dog itself will be scared of you.
- Attack the dog yourself, screaming and waving an umbrella, bag or jacket removed. If the dog continues to attack, dodge its jump and try to hit it in a vulnerable place as hard as possible.
- Lift a stone, a stick, a bottle from the ground and swipe at the dog - she probably had a negative experience with these objects, so she can get scared and run away. If there is nothing to pick up - pretend that you pick up something and wave it, sometimes it may work.
- In a firm voice, give the command: "Place, stand, lie, fu."
- The dog’s gaze is always directed to the place that it is going to bite - so try to dodge or knock the dog off the trajectory of the jump with a strong blow.
- Turn to the dog sideways and extend your hand towards it. A dog that thought to jump on you will be discouraged.


Olga Romashina

 

[Матушкин Андрей Николаевич]

Thank!

 

[Симферополь]

Thank! Very useful material in the daily life of a detective and any person!

 

[Орлан]

Thanks, useful stuff.

 

[Детективное агентство Тула]

Thank!
The applied value is undeniable.

 

[Частный детектив Севастополь ОДБ]

Thanks, useful and interesting.

 

[Плотников Юрий Михайлович]

Thanks, useful information!

 

[Частный детектив Севастополь ОДБ]

Currently, the problem of stray dogs is really very acute. In Ukraine, the so-called groups have already appeared DOGHANTERS, exterminating those dogs that pose a real threat, especially for children in the yards.

 

[Частный детектив. Тайный советник. Омск.]

Very useful stuff. Thank you Victor Mikhailovich !!!

 

[НСК-СБ]

How to protect yourself from dog attacks? (67421)

PROTECTION FROM A DOG IN CASE OF AN ATTACK BY K. Timoshenko

A dog is a weapon. With the owner or by herself. How to protect yourself in the event of a dog attack, pain points, methods of protection. Program of behavior when meeting with an aggressive dog. How to kill a dog. Various types of legal weapons. From the series of articles "School of survival". This can be useful not only in a fight with a dog...

Stray dogs and us

Unfortunately, in recent years, the "pendulum of relations" between humans and animals, which are called "dogs" in our country is in the position of "dogs". I.e., while the prevailing opinion is that "you can't touch a dog". Not in any way, and under no circumstances. Let it be a hotbed of infection, prone to rabies, breeds uncontrollably and is extremely dangerous, etc. - to exterminate them and generally take any measures against them is "inhumane", "inhumane" and all that.
And this is despite the fact that meat processing plants (and, consequently, slaughterhouses) are working at full capacity and new ones are being built (no one spares cows and pigs, moreover, their meat goes to feed dogs), despite the fact that the number of stray dogs, potential and real sources of infection is increasing at an alarming rate, despite the fact that the number of bitten people is thousands of people, including those who are bitten to death, despite the fact that huge money is spent on "cleaning up" (and actually stolen).
Yes, yes... M. Bulgakov gave us a great scare with his Sharikov, who worked in the "cleaning department", directly developed an innate reflex of hatred for those who are engaged in catching stray animals and seek to protect us from infections and attacks by rabid and half-mad dogs. If the epidemiologist is almost a hero, then the person who cleans the city of entire colonies of these microbes and their carriers (and rabies, by the way, is incurable and it is always 100% fatal) is a "scoundrel", "knacker" , etc. Obviously, something very extraordinary is going to happen, for example, stray dogs will bite Luzhkov or his numerous children, or some other major official. Then the brains of the "defenders of stray animals" will quickly be put in place by the appropriate directive, the pendulum will swing in the other direction and the citizens will get a few years of respite from this half-mad stray pack.
The latest" invention " of a humane method of struggle - through sterilization, does not give any results (except for the ability to launder money-go check whether this dog is sterilized or not). The dog also wants to eat, is just as aggressive, can also get rabies, and also attack a person. Wouldn't it be easier just to give her an injection and she will soon fall asleep forever and without pain, seeing her happy dog dreams? It will also be cheaper. Arguments for the fact that stray dogs regulate the number of rats by eating off a certain number of them are simply ridiculous. Over the past year, according to the SES, the number of rats has increased three (!) times. Thank you, compassionate half-witted old ladies, for our happy dog's share. They stopped catching us, but we still won't catch the rats. They need to be chased. And in the garbage dumps, the contents of which are exported not according to circumstances, as the containers are filled, but according to His Majesty's Schedule, given to us by God and signed by Himself (and therefore unchanged for centuries), there is enough food for everyone. Both us and the rats. We survived the famine, but we'll survive the abundance somehow...
But while this has not happened (and it can happen only by accident), citizens are forced to defend themselves with improvised methods. Below I will try to describe some of the developments in this area and my thoughts.

Variants

Whether you want to or not, you come into contact with dogs in one way or another. Stray dogs, unless they are bred in your yard, are dangerous in two cases. When they are mad and rush at everything that moves and when they get together in packs of more than a dozen dogs with a strong leader at the head. Fortunately, these phenomena are quite public and do not exist in time for long. Whether good or bad, sooner or later, both will be exterminated or dispersed. But, unfortunately, these are the most dangerous cases. Even a single bite from a rabid dog or an attack by a pack of dogs is a very likely opportunity to quickly and painfully end your life either in the clinic or directly at the scene of the attack.

"Familiar" dogs. These are the dogs of your neighbors in the house, the entrance. I.e., those that you encounter quite regularly in the yard and even in the elevator.

"Unfamiliar" dogs. Those dogs that you encounter during walks in the park, jogging, and other situations. You may be seeing them for the first and last time.
I introduced this division because it provides for different models of your behavior.
Dogs are pack animals, with a clear hierarchical structure of the pack. The leader and his subordinates. Any disobedience is punished quickly and severely, sometimes with death. Therefore, in relations with dogs, you should rely on the psychology of dogs - she always wants to take the place of the leader, if there is even the slightest chance to do so. That's nature. This leads to the following conclusions:
* Never ingratiate yourself with a dog by trying to buy its favor with affection. Do not believe these nonsense trainers about "love for animals". To force an animal to do something that it did not do for the next 5 million years, you can either fear punishment if you do not do it, or the desire to get food (i.e., hunger). Some exceptions are dolphins, but everything is different there. If you fawn over a dog (even your own), it will immediately understand that it is the Owner. And it will be almost impossible to convince her otherwise.
• If the contact is one-time and you do not want to position yourself in relation to her, behave like a being from another world. For example, a bird on a tree. That is, demonstrate to the dog that your life paths do not intersect with it in any way. In other words, don't pay any attention to it (or at least pretend to). Do not look into her eyes, do not turn in her direction (if the dog shows interest in you from afar, observe with your peripheral vision). She is an empty place, and you are busy with your own affairs. Then she will not think that you are encroaching on her territory, her place in the pack, do not want to take away her prey.

General rules

Dogs are excellent telepaths. They are well aware of your mood and condition, the presence of adrenaline in your blood. But the adrenaline is different. There is the adrenaline of fear - you are a ready victim, you are afraid of the dog, and you are already ready to fix it. And there is the adrenaline of victory, the one that is present in the blood of the winner, the one that gives a feeling of delight.
Don't be afraid of dogs. Dogs can be trained on a person (there are a negligible number of them among those with whom you contact) and Not trained. To train a dog on a person is a very expensive pleasure and either completely frostbitten owners of fighting dogs or special services go for it. The second, however, you should not be afraid. If it comes to that, then this dog's attack is nothing compared to your further problems. In addition, they are trained for detention, not for extermination and gnawing to death.
Untrained dogs do not have the skills to attack a person. Serious injuries are possible only by accident - the dog bit your leg - you fell, hit your head on the asphalt. Usually everything ends with bites of the legs, arms, occasionally the torso, face.
People are also prepared and unprepared to defend against dogs. The worst case scenario is an attack by a trained dog on an untrained person or child. The probability of a fatal outcome for a person is very high. The best option for a person is a prepared person and an untrained dog. The probability of a fatal outcome for a dog is almost 100%..
If both "contactors" are unprepared, then it usually does not come to a fight. The bite will most likely be one-time and accidental. Most likely, it will end with barking and shouting.
In a conflict between a trained dog and a trained person, the person almost always wins, although often with great losses.
Therefore, it is better to always be prepared for a fight with a dog. Even basic training greatly increases your chances of getting out of the fight without serious damage to your body, not to mention survival. As they say, be ready. If you want peace, prepare for war.

The best war is the one that hasn't started

The attack of a dog on a person (if it is not a special service dog and not on the orders of the owner), the phenomenon is still rare. In 99% of cases, it all ends with angry barking and mutual threats. But if you don't want to win this lottery, don't buy lottery tickets.
Never tease the dog, do not shout, do not swing at it, do not provoke it to aggression. It is also impossible to sneak up, suddenly and loudly address its owner, behave aggressively, make sudden movements. Do not try to give the dog commands. Thus, you claim the place of the Owner, whom she protects. Any of these actions for the dog means an attack on it, the owner, the territory. And, of course, it will cause a defensive response.
Do not expect to intimidate the dog, especially if it is with the owner. You can only intimidate a downtrodden single stray dog. She's probably already suffered a lot from people, and she won't want to come into contact with them again. The dog "with the owner" is extremely difficult to intimidate, he will earn his bread as a watchman and guard to the end. It is easier to kill him or disable him in another way than to intimidate him.
Therefore, the best way to avoid conflict is not to provoke it yourself.

Stray dogs

If you see that the pack is lying in the middle of the road - it is better to go calmly and ahead of time to the other side. Do not try to take the place of the leader of this pack. Do not push your luck and do not drag lottery tickets. If the pack is lying down and not prowling, it means that it is not on the hunt.
If this is not possible and it is impossible to disperse, two possible behaviors are possible. One of them is to demonstrate complete indifference to them. However, there may be a completely unmotivated attack on their part. It won't seem like much to them. Walking through a pack of dogs is not a pleasant experience.
Perhaps this is the only way when there is a reason to start a war first. Even on the approach, you should shout at the dogs in a loud and low voice, resembling a growl. A dog is an animal, although it can distinguish articulate speech, but it reacts to intonation. If you start with threats ("growls"), then you are ready to fight. And if she has nothing to defend here , she (they) will most likely retreat even after shouting.
It should be demonstrative to show the dogs that you are armed-pick up (or pretend to pick up) a stick, a branch, a stone from the ground. Dogs probably have an unpleasant experience of contact with these objects and do not want relapses. If the distance allows, you can even throw a stone in the direction of the pack, demonstrating the seriousness of your intentions.

Familiar dogs

It's best to really really get to know them. You will have to live with them, as they say, i.e. face them constantly. I.e., in a calm voice, talk to the owner about the weather, his car, ask for advice about the dog (even if you hate this flea bag). To say a few compliments in the direction of the owner and herself. In general, make it so that she would smell you, remember you and the timbre of your voice. And the friendly atmosphere of the first acquaintance is important. "The master's friend is my friend (though not the master)." Such a confrontation will significantly reduce the likelihood of a conflict between you and the dog. But it will never reduce it to zero, sometimes dogs attack even their own owners, so you still need to be on the alert and feel the mood of the dog.

Unfamiliar dogs

This contingent is the most dangerous, because it is "with the owner"," on duty", can be trained, etc. Some "dog lovers" - moral freaks, even like that his dog is afraid of everyone around.
Here it is best not to provoke a conflict. See the general recommendations. Behave independently, do not encroach on their interests, do not make claims. Even if the conflict does occur, the truth will be on your side, you were not the initiator, which almost guarantees victory in the trial.

If war cannot be avoided

Learn to"match". A dog is a strong, muscular animal, weighing several tens of kilograms. Her main weapons are her teeth and fangs. A dog is not a cat, it doesn't pull with its claws. The typical behavior of a dog in an attack is a jump, overturning the enemy, followed by biting. Some try to grab at the throat, some inflict multiple bites, trying to tear out pieces of meat. This is what concerns a trained dog. They are trained to dodge blows, very quirky and agile.
The dog does not have many vulnerabilities, but they are there. And if you know them, you can quickly neutralize any dog, especially using various "weapons".
The most wrong thing in a fight with a dog is the fear of it and passive defense (fall, cover your head with your hands, etc.) - in this case, you will definitely suffer more than actively defending.
So, which places on the dog's body are most vulnerable. These are, first of all, the tip of the nose, the bridge of the nose, the occipital part and the crown behind the ears, the solar plexus, the ribs, the joints of the paws, the coccyx. The vulnerable places can also include the eyes, nostrils( nose), mucous membranes, genitals. It is necessary to act on these vulnerable places, mechanically (with a fist, fingers, improvised objects (stones, sticks, branches, dust, dirt), with a pre-prepared weapon.
It should be borne in mind that trained dogs and dogs of certain breeds (fighting) are accustomed to pain and it is very difficult to take them under pain control. Therefore, you should disable them simply mechanically - do not pretend that you are breaking a paw, but really break it. Do not put your knee on the dog's ribs, but jump with all your weight. Your goal is to KILL the dog, not to chase it away or "punish"it. It has already crossed the threshold of what is allowed and must be destroyed. At least she won't stop and will attack even a dead person), and doesn't know if they're dead or alive), so you're really fighting to the death. And not in a virtual way.

Psychological weapons

Some psychologists say that it is psychologically difficult for many people to fight with dogs. Just as most people feel disgust and disgust if a spider or a cockroach falls on them and an instant desire to kill them (although in our area these are the most harmless insects, and spiders are generally useful), so in a fight between a dog and a person, a person does not know how to fight a dog. Therefore, the main model of its behavior is passive defense - to close, to run away, to minimize its losses. The dog has a complete and overwhelming moral superiority in such a fight and comes out of it at all, without any losses and the winner.
To defeat the dog morally, imagine that it is a small evil man-a dwarf with sharp teeth, who will bite, who has caused you a lot of evil. But you should (and most importantly have every chance) kill him.
Morally, you should be prepared for the fact that, most likely, you will not do without bites. Some of the clothes will also be ruined. But the losses in any case will be less than you immediately surrender to the mercy of the winner. And if you are the winner, then the dog owner's problems will begin further. Do not hesitate to assess your moral and physical damage.
Imagine the scene as you break her paws, ribs, choke her with your knee, tear her apart, her blood flows like a river, she screams, and strive to escape. Thus, you yourself will be mentally prepared for the fight, and the telepathic dogs will also "see" this picture of their bleak future. Behave like Tarzan, demonstrate absolute determination and readiness to engage immediately. Inject the adrenaline of a Winner into your bloodstream. And it is necessary to shout it loudly and in an angry growling voice "A-a-a-a-a-a-a! What will I do to you! How I've been waiting for this moment! Well, finally! Now you will learn what Pain is!" Shout anything, but shout "scary".
In addition to the psychological impact on the dog, these screams will attract others. And the owner of the dog does not like to have so many witnesses. Therefore, it will make every effort to prevent conflict.
Another psychological weapon is your behavior. Dogs are trained to ATTACK a person and defend themselves against his retaliatory actions. Untrained dogs act instinctively, as if they are hunting. And that's exactly what it does when hunting - it catches up with its prey, jumps, knocks it over, and tears or bites its throat. Her nature has taught her this for millions of years.
Another behavior pattern is that the victim stops and starts to defend himself. Then the pack encircles her and the dogs that are on her back attack. In our case, there is no pack, and you are always face to face. What follows from the analysis of the dog's behavior during the attack? It is necessary to behave outside the box, not as she expects. In the most dangerous case-the dog is trained on a person. Do NOT behave LIKE a PERSON, but like an unusual animal.
Never behave passively, falling down and covering yourself with your hands.
You should never run away - you still can't run away, the dog runs 5 times faster than a person. The exception is the case when it is possible to be guaranteed to be out of the reach of the dog. For example, you can quickly climb a branching tree, climb a ladder, or enter waist-deep water.
By the way, a dog in the water is very defenseless. You are standing on the ground, and she is floating. It is enough to dodge at least once, grab it by the fur, lean on it and dive with it, or duck so that its muzzle is in the water. It'll be over in a minute. Simply put, if she rushes after you into the water-drowning the dog if you want is easy.
If there is no opportunity to hide, then you should take up the defense, or even attack it yourself. For example, to run towards her, screaming terribly, taking off his jacket (coat), waving improvised objects (umbrella, bag, briefcase). Then the dog turns from a hunter into a game, which is unfamiliar to her, she was not taught this. Other instincts begin to work - self-preservation. Even if the dog is not afraid and will continue to run at you, do not stop. If she jumps - dodge and give her a good kick in the groin or under the tail, hit her with a fist on the back of the head from top to bottom. A miss during a jump in a dog is the strongest stress, sharply reducing its self-esteem - it has already lost one round. The main thing is not to let it knock you down during the jump due to its kinetic energy. But if she does not abandon the active form of attack after that, the game goes into the endgame. You need to continue the inappropriate behavior that the dog does not expect. Immediately you need to take a stable pose and turn to the dog sideways. Bend your head down and cover your throat with your chin. If possible, take off your coat and jacket and use them to occupy the dog's mouth or throw it over its head, blind it. At the same time, you need to hit, hit, and hit the vulnerable points. If you managed to knock down a dog-a recumbent dog is not a fighter. Jump on it with your whole body and knee forward, on your chest, spine. If you manage to throw the dog's head back, hit the base of the skull with your fist and break its spine.
If you are not a large person, and the dog is large enough, you can even stand on one or two knees for stability (but only after the dog jumps). Thus, you will become more stable and get out of the way of your legs-the most unprotected part of the body.

An important role is played by the possibility of disruption of the optical connection between the owner and the dog. Without visual contact with its owner, it feels much less confident. Therefore, if possible, take her with you to the bushes, behind the trees, around the corner, etc. The dog will immediately lose the incentive to continue the fight. The territory is probably not hers, the owner is also not visible, you are not a game... What to fight for? In most cases, she will try to get out of the fight.
In combat, you should use different types of"weapons". As they say in England , it doesn't matter what you have. It's important how effectively you use it. Now about the "weapon".
Chemical weapons. Dogs have an unsurpassed sense of smell. He is their weakest point. If you force her to smell SOMETHING, then the desire for a fight disappears almost instantly and regardless of her desire.
Dogs are practically not affected by various nerve gases from cans "for people". But the excellent effect is given by pepper or mustard gases. Therefore, buy only such cans or cartridges for gas weapons. You can use gas weapons against dogs from any distance. The dog, getting into a cloud of such gas, is disoriented very quickly. And if you manage to send a stream into the nostrils-the war ends immediately. This creature immediately has other problems, more important than you.
During the war, SMERSH workers used a homemade mixture (the so-called Cayenne mixture) to neutralize the dogs. It consists of a mixture of ground black pepper and tobacco in a ratio of 50/50. When buying tobacco, choose the most smelly one. Both pepper and tobacco are additionally ground to a dusty state (for example, with a coffee grinder). You can also add mustard powder. This "dust" perfectly sticks and settles on any moist mucosa-nose, nostrils, mouth, eyes and causes an unbearable burning sensation, and with increasing effect. And unlike the gas that escapes, the dust is removed only by mechanical means-washing. I.e. the dog is neutralized for at least a few hours plus further treatment. And if she inhales a sufficient amount of it, to the point of burning the airways, with a hit in the bronchi and lungs, then a fatal outcome is likely. And the end will be extremely painful.
Store this mixture in a plastic cylindrical cup. In the outer pocket. Moreover, the cover should be both tight and removable instantly and with one hand, for example, with the thumb. Vitamin bottles are ideal.
Practice the procedure of snatching the bottle from the upper chest pockets and dropping the cap. See training and other weapons.
You can also make powder grenades. To do this, take a Christmas cracker. It is carefully disassembled from the side of the confetti ejection. Instead of confetti, the cayenne mixture is filled in and the cracker is sealed. The cord is extended to 30-40 centimeters. If you expect "contact", then the free end of the cord is tied in advance to a loop in your pocket, belt, etc. Then you can activate this mini-gun with one hand. Took out-directed-pulled in the direction of the enemy. There is a shot with the release of the mixture at 1-1. 5 meters. It should be remembered that firecrackers have low reliability.

"Noise" weapons

Dogs, especially trained ones, are not afraid of the sound of gunshots. And it is difficult to frighten the untrained with an abstract loud sound. Another thing is to shoot her right in the ear. My grandfather, in this way, slaughtered boars. The pig was not fed for a day, then given liquid food. She was not interested in anything else at this time. Grandfather calmly put the barrel of a rifle with a blank cartridge in the pig's ear and fired. Death was always instantaneous. From pain shock and brain hemorrhage.
On sale there are various scarecrows and devices for firing gas or noise cartridges. Taking the dog's mouth with your left hand, insert the barrel into the ear and shoot. The dead dog
In principle, you can use large firecrackers, but not for noise, but by making gas grenades out of them. To do this, a cayenne mixture is prepared, a small paper casing is glued around the firecracker, where the mixture is poured (about one teaspoon). The casing is sealed.
When a firecracker explodes, a suspension of pepper, tobacco, and gunpowder is formed.
The only drawback is that firecrackers have low reliability and are difficult to activate unless special measures are taken.
You should use firecrackers with an incendiary head (struck on the box-threw-after a few seconds), and not with a cord.

Electric weapons

These are, as you can guess, electrical dischargers. Since the dog has a thick coat and a thick undercoat, you should slightly modify the spark gap if you plan to use it against dogs. It is necessary to increase the needles of the contacts to 3-5 centimeters. Fortunately, most vicious dogs are short-haired and it is not difficult for the spark gap contacts to penetrate through their fur. If you have a spark gap with firing contacts, shoot only for sure, at point-blank range. The main place of the electric shock is the neck and chest.

"Fire" weapons

Signal cartridges of the "Torch" type are available for sale. This is a special compound in a case that resembles a small grenade. The principle of operation is like that of a firecracker - "pull, baby, for a string..." After firing, the cartridge within a minute throws out a torch of blinding flame with a length of 30-50 centimeters. If you extend the cord to 20-30 cm with a reliable cord, and the cartridge itself will be carried in an accessible place, then activate it-half a second and with one hand. After a jerk, the cartridge turns into a mini-flamethrower. And I know of no beast that can withstand the pressure of the flames for more than a second. Use this weapon only if the dog has made contact with you.
I want to note that this cartridge does not require air to burn - it burns even under water.Gorenje: Therefore, he is not afraid of either wind or rain. But, unfortunately, the cartridge is disposable. And its action cannot be stopped.
A gas lighter can also act as a flamethrower. Once I came across a Chinese lighter (defective), which gave a flame tongue length of 20 centimeters. Well, what is not a flamethrower? You can easily set fire to the aggressor's face. "Iron Tooth"

Remember Mowgli? His battle with Sherkhan? "The fairy tale is a lie, but there is a hint in it, a lesson for good fellows" (this is already Pushkin). Quite a lot of household items have a dual purpose and can act as an" iron tooth " - a cold weapon. At the same time, the police can not have any claims against you. Meanwhile, they will easily penetrate the dog's neck,
First of all, it is:
* Fountain pen. Let it be not a plastic Chinese tube, but a metal one, made of steel, with a pointed end.
* Comb. Let it be with a long, thin, pointed handle. A la stiletto.
* Screwdriver. With a spatula or a cross. Any with a rod length of 10 centimeters.
* Nail. Length 150-200 mm
And so on. The main thing is to carry this "tooth" in a place where it can be removed in half a second.
A fairly optimal weapon is ... a pestle from a mortar, for grinding. Made of earthenware or metal. It significantly increases the impact of the fist, and if you hit from the top down (which is natural in a fight with a dog), a skull fracture, broken ribs or a broken spine are almost guaranteed. Improvised items

It can be a stone, a stick, a piece of asphalt, foliage, dust, dirt. None of the items should be thrown. Especially if he's alone. Hold the stone in your fist - a blow with it will be much more painful than just a fist. With a stick, you can keep the dog at a distance, and if you contact it, you can break the dog's spine or poke it in the eye, mouth, or groin. An armful of leaves can be shoved into the dog's mouth, in the muzzle. You will cause her a little harm, but you will gain time, you will be able to take a more stable position, take a favorable position. Dust and dirt can clog her eyes, nose, and make her sneeze. Only apply them "at point-blank range", in contact with the muzzle of the dog.
From the improvised items available with you, there can be an umbrella, a package, a bag, clothes…
Do not use an umbrella as a baton, it is not effective. The umbrella works much better as a shield. Open and close it - the dog does not understand the essence of things. For her, paper is an insurmountable barrier if she does not see the goal. And the victim's suddenly changing geometric dimensions simply confuse her. Think of the Incas, the Mayans, and the Aztecs. When they first saw a rider on a horse, they thought it was half animal, half human. And they were horrified when the rider dismounted - the animal was separated. The dog (any) just gets scared if the umbrella dome suddenly opens in front of it.
The bag can "occupy" the dog's mouth. If you hit her on the face, on the nose, the dog will reflexively try to bite her. Let her grab the bag. When she grabs it, pull with all your strength. The dog will try to hold it. Move the bag to the side, distract the attention, and kick the dog. If possible, overturn the dog, fall on it with your whole body.
If you manage to take off your jacket or coat, use it to distract the dog, as a shield. Try to throw a coat on the dog, blind him and make it difficult for him to move. If you have succeeded - fall on it with all your weight. If you can't remove the entire coat, try to release half of the left sleeve. Use it as a "stand" to occupy the dog's mouth. You can strike with your right, free hand.

If the dog is not "at hand", train without it. If you are shy - at the dacha in an open field, in the forest. After all, just practicing a punch is already a great thing. You also need to be able to hit painfully. If you do not train alone, the role of the dog can be performed by a partner (alternately).
In any case, you must be mentally prepared for a fight with a dog. Many people simply freeze if the dog pounces on them and go into a blind defense, which consists in dodging the dog and plaintive screams. They don't even think about actively defending, let alone attacking.
Remember, a trained person can kill a dog, or at least neutralize it by knockout, almost instantly. For example, a counter punch to the nose, to the back of the head, to the bridge of the nose. He can take her under pain control by simultaneously hitting her eyes with his fingers, hitting her in the solar plexus, plugging or pulling out her nostrils with his fingers. A dog can take control of a person in rare cases, and then if he is completely unprepared.
Therefore, you must be morally stronger than the dog, feel like the master of the situation. Dogs can feel it, too. Your ideology should be " I'll do whatever I want with you, and you'll only do what I let you do with me."

Effects

During a fight with a dog, in no case do not take care of "branded" clothes, things, etc.Their cost is a mere trifle, compared to the cost of high-quality treatment for bites. In addition, their cost, plus moral damage, can be reimbursed through the court from the owner of the dog. It will be very stupid if you find yourself badly bitten because you "took care" of your favorite jacket. You have ONLY ONE life and health, and you will buy new jeans or a jacket for yourself and 10 more times. And at the expense of the owner of the dog.
Any fact of an attack of a dog on a person (independent or on the instigation of the owner) is an emergency. In no case should such incidents be left without consequences. Even if the owner will claim that you teased his dog - the dog in a public place should be on a leash and in a muzzle. The maximum that she is allowed is to spit freely at the one who teases her. Here in the owner's apartment, let it at least walk on the ceiling and on his head. But not in a public place.
Even if someone's dog just barked at you - this is already a THREAT, and a reason to contact the police, and the court, the deputy, SES, etc. The first 5 of your applications may not be paid attention to. But the water sharpens the stone…
Moreover, if your path lies through the "dog playground" where you can potentially be attacked - write letters. And send them out by registered mail and with a notification. In all instances, even to the President of the Russian Federation. The one who creates problems for other citizens should have problems, not the other way around. And do not listen to the "defenders of animals" - in civilized Europe, there are many cities where dogs are simply FORBIDDEN to keep at all, by law. Do you want a dog? "live in the country. Do you like a dog? - love me! But the others don't have to love her! Your dog is your problem. And try to make sure that no one has any trouble because of your dog.
One of the greats said, " The more I get to know people, the more I love dogs." There is certainly some truth in this. But he loves HIS dogs, not dogs in general. Yes, some people are bastards. But dogs are just animals, they don't obey the law, they only obey their instincts and reflexes. And therefore it is necessary to treat them as animals, and not "create an idol out of them". Even if they are very expensive in monetary terms.